Updating closet doors
Things are definitely brightening up and it’s happening quickly! Just in case you missed part one, here’s a little reminder of how this area used to look.You can see the closet doors off to the right there.Once you have the right size molding, you can create any design you’d like with it.I considered going with one or two rectangles to keep things nice and simple and match the bedroom doors, but ultimately was drawn to an “X” formation. I found this molding from Lowe’s that was the perfect size, and a great price at just 60 cents/foot: Tip: look them over carefully and make sure to select the straightest ones, and always buy an extra or two!My design plan called for two 8 foot pieces per door (I had 7 doors total).That makes each door cost just under (not including paint/supplies).It took about 3 coats and soon it was really starting to feel like a whole new world in here.
I had tested a few soft grays (all Valspar) the week before, and made my decision pretty quickly… Now that your first piece is cut, apply a line of liquid nails to the back and line up each edge to your door marks, like so: Then you’ll want to tape it in place while the glue dries, so it doesn’t shift. And don’t forget to subscribe to my You Tube channel so you don’t miss any of the tours & tutorials! If your trim is warped and won’t lie flat, tape will not fix this—you’ll have to nail it in either via nail gun or a small brad nail and hammer. The color reads pretty white on screen, but they’ll look more gray once the surrounding walls are painted white. I let it dry for a few hours, then I came back to it.Before you can start drawing on your chalkboard, you need to “season” it.